We started with the damper at a “one” setting and she would progressively increase it while keeping an eye on the number displayed on the screen for the drag coefficient. Keep in mind, you still may want to change the damper setting for longer workouts. Either way, the rowing machine fitness test is the best all-round fit test you can do. Which damper setting gave you the best time? The damper setting for the 2000 meter row test must be set at 5 on the flywheel 7. Record the finish time for the 2000 meters on the ETR‐164 8. 3. If your C2 is new and dust-free, a damper setting of 10 is probably way too high. 4. This won’t make it any easier, but it will stop you unnecessarily hamstringing yourself. We recommend starting out using a damper setting of 3–5. A great test is to set a rowing machine for 2,000 meters and you row for time. www.elevationrowing.com/damper-setting-basics-higher-better Lower damper settings workouts are harder on the lungs; higher damper settings make it harder on the muscles. In fact, I bet if you spent more time at a drag factor of 70, 80, or 90 (let’s say about 3, 5, or 7 on the dial) you’d realize that 10 isn’t necessarily best. Really focus on technique, and as you improve, you may find that a lower damper setting gives you the best workout and results. The short version is that there isn't really a standard; it depends on what your goals for the session are. With a little experimentation, you will find the damper setting and drag factor that work best for you. Repeated regularly, the time to complete the two thousand meters will fall. Then go to 4 & do it again after 1-2 min rest. Eventually, you may pass under the seven-minute mark and become one of the “better rowers.” This is one obvious and common approach to training for a 7 minute 2K on a rower (2K/7). Myth: The higher the stroke rate, the better the workout. The beauty of the test and machine combined is that you can adjust the rower damper to your own optimum level. Concept2 describes damper settings and drag factor quite well here. Start your damper at 3 and row 100m hard. A damper cranked all the way to 10 doesn’t make you any more faster/efficient than you’d be at a lower setting. Set the PM Monitor as noted on page 3 5. A couple of of things that I took out of this article, and elsewhere: high damper is like sitting in a fat row boat, low damper … To calculate my best setting, Magda asked me to sit on the rower and start rowing as if I was going to do a 2000m. Note your interval time & 500m pace. Then 6. What feels differently? The damper setting that gives you a DF (drag factor) of somewhere from 100 to 135 seems to be the best because that is closest to what it would feel like to be rowing a racing boat on the water, according to some guidance I've read from Concept 2. Set the rowing ergometer for two thousand meters, row, and note the time at completion. Once you've figured out at what damper setting you're pulling the best pace at go "other options" and then "drag coefficent." The fan cages on our later indoor rowers (Model C and later), are numbered so you can set the damper lever to a particular value from 1–10, indicating how much air is drawn into the cage on each stroke: Keep your stroke rating at a 24. Then 5. Damper Setting is… The damper is the lever on the side of the flywheel housing, or fan cage, that controls how much air flows into the cage. It really comes down to personal preference – if you’re a lightweight (under 5’10, probably) you might benefit from rowing at a lower damper setting with a higher stroke rate. Instruct the employee to begin the test and to utilize maximum effort to cover the 2000 meters 6. The most common mistake is Damper Setting too high. See more on damper setting. Try this: Row 100 metres at different damper settings: 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9. It also tests your strength & cardio, being a good gauge of your fitness. Get the damper setting right.